Buying
SCUBA Equipment
by: Rick Murcar
Nov. 15 2005 |
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With many
different brands of scuba diving equipment available, you
want to know what's best for you. To many times we can see
that a particular student comes from a particular dive shop
by the equipment they wear. By the same accord sometimes we
can even determine who may have been their instructor. This
not a bad thing but was the retailer or instructor really
looking after the student. Many students buy equipment based
on what the instructor is wearing, rather than on what meets
their needs and budget.
We need to look at equipment from a different point
of view than how the retailer looks at it. Some retailers
are really only after the profit margin they receive following
a sale. The store clerk may be pressured by quotas or makes
a commission on each sale or both. Good retailers are truly
interested in the customer's needs, and budgetary concerns
and the service they can provide that customer. Oh yes, they
want to make money but they want you to feel comfortable with
your purchase and service you received. Retailers often rely
on the scuba instructor to sell equipment and it is the instructor
who is your first source of information when selecting the
type of equipment that's right for you. Lets take a look now
at what good retailers do in providing you the customer with
what you need for enjoyable scuba diving.
FIT
AND COMFORT
It is here a good retailer shows they care about you, the
customer. I once had to actually tell a customer that the
$100 mask was wrong for her and that the $40 mask was a much
better purchase. Why? because it FIT! She was convinced that
the $100 mask was of much better quality and therefore should
be better for her to have. The customer is always right, not
this time. I explained to her that if the mask did not fit
she would not enjoy scuba diving and that the less expensive
mask would provide her with much more comfort, thus more enjoyable
diving. I also explained that a mask may fit her but if she
was not comfortable with that mask, to try on another one
that provided her with a good fit and comfort. To prove my
point I took three masks to the pool, the $100 mask and two
$40 masks. She bought the more comfortable $40 mask. All three
masks offered similar quality.
It is fit and comfort (and to some degree price and
quality) that should be the deciding factor in selection of
scuba diving equipment. As a customer, always use fit and
comfort as your deciding factor in selecting equipment. Quality
and price are important but today it is very easy to tell
poor quality from good quality in scuba diving equipment,
and the prices are wide ranging for similar quality. You should
buy your equipment from a knowledgeable store dealing in scuba
sales, service and instruction. Sorry but the equipment you
buy at some large sports chain store or a save your money
distributor store, will not survive for very long in the underwater
environment and you will be right back spending money again
to replace it, in short these kind of stores often sell equipment
that I wouldn't even trust in a pool. Regulators can be made
to fit by the mouthpiece. A retailer will change out the mouthpiece
to ensure comfort to the customer. Regulators need only be
judged by their ease of breathing. The average price for an
excellent quality regulator is $450-$600. We'll cover other
equipment such as the buoyancy compensation devices (BCD)
and wetsuits later in their own section.
WARRANTY
Different
manufactures offer different warranties on their equipment.
Generally the manufacturer that is willing to back their equipment
will offer a longer term and more favorable warranty. Some
offer lifetime to original owner. I have seen customers who
have owned a particular brand of BCD for 18 years bring it
in and get warranty work done at no cost to them for repair.
Others only offer a 2-5 year warranty on their product. Warranty
and service are also a deciding factor in the purchase of
equipment.
DECIDING
There
is many brands of equipment out there, some are better than
others both in quality and price. The more expensive item
does not guarantee the better product. You must decide based
on your budget, what you can buy, and the quality and of course
the fit and comfort. When selecting decide how that piece
of equipment fits you and is it comfortable for you. Ask about
the warranty. Paying a few dollars more may be worth it for
the warranty. Ask about after sales service. Then when you
are comfortable with the information you have, choose your
color after all you want to look your best!
TESTING
FOR FIT & COMFORT
TECHNIQUES FOR BUYING
Lets
take a few moments here to talk about how we can ensure that
"good fit and comfort" we want in our diving equipment and
how we should buy it to save the most money overall.
THE
MASK

The
mask should be placed upon your face without using the head
strap. Make sure no hair is between the mask skirt and your
facial skin. If you have a moustache you may need to consider
trimming it a little under the nose about 1/8 inch or shave
it off. Now suck in with your nose and hold it. The mask should
suck in towards your face; you should not hear any air seepage
and the mask should stay in place as long as you hold in the
suction. Now pull the head strap over your head, positioning
it above the ear line on the very back of your head. (You
can release the suction) You may need to take in or let out
some strap to fit your head. The mask should not be pulled
to tight, as this will cause the skirt to flex out and cause
the mask to leak and be uncomfortable. Does the mask sit comfortably
on your face; is your vision good, looking straightforward
and peripheral. Do you like a clear skirt or an opaque skirt?
Is it your color? If you wear eyeglasses you may decide to
purchase corrective lens for your mask. This is a better and
safer option than wearing your contact lens. For this option
you can purchase a mask with your actual prescription, even
bifocals. The retailer also may stock corrective lenses for
some masks, these can be installed in about 5 minutes. Usually
a mask that you can use corrective lens in is a two-lens design.
THE
SNORKEL
The
snorkel is really nothing more than a tube about 3/4 to 1
inch in diameter. It should be comfortable in your mouth and
not more than 12-15 inches in overall length. For scuba diving
you may elect to choose a snorkel that hangs down away from
your mouth so as not to interfere when breathing from the
regulator. The snorkel is worn on the left side of your mask.
THE
BOOTIES
The
booties or wet socks come in a variety of styles. Basically
they should be as comfortable to wear somewhat comparable
to a good pair of running shoes or slippers. You want them
snug on your feet but not to tight. Generally they size similar
to a shoe size. Try them on and walk around in them, see how
they feel. Booties offer warmth and better foot protection
and are much safer than going barefoot.
THE
FINS
Fins should be tried on with a pair of booties you find comfortable
to wear. Some fins don't require booties as they just slide
on your feet direct like a slipper. For scuba diving it is
generally better to buy fins that use a foot strap. Your feet
are warmer because of the booties and the fin will respond
better to the movements of your leg during fin kick cycles.
The fins should allow your foot to easily enter the foot pocket.
It is not required that your toes touch the end of the foot
pocket. The fins should be snug against the topside of your
foot showing no gaps or loose material. Fins come in different
sizes (small, med, large, x-large). Test the fit of the fin,
first without using the fin strap, for security of fit. Now
place the fin strap to where you find it most comfortable,
usually just above the heel bone. Tighten the fin strap only
until snug, do not over tighten, as this will cause cramps
in your foot. Test the stiffness of the fin blade by pulling
the fin tip back towards you, decide if you will quickly out
grow the fin stiffness because of your leg strength or if
the fin blade is suitable to your requirements. Does the color
match your mask and snorkel? Ensure you become familiar with
how the fin strap buckle system works, how it releases and
tightens and how the strap mounts to the fin.
WETSUIT
OR DRYSUIT
ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
 The
environment to which you will be learning in will give you
some good insight as to the importance of wearing a wetsuit
or drysuit. There are many different materials available in
which manufactures use in the making of their environmental
suits. Some are warmer than others. Lets start with a look
at wetsuits first. Basically the wetsuit is made of a neoprene
material. The suit should fit snug but not be restrictive.
Some manufacturers will make a custom wetsuit and of course
this will cost you a few dollars more. For most of us we can
get by with a suit right off the rack. Women's suits are sized
similar to a women's dress size. Men go by small, medium,
large and up. The sizing charts use a height and weight comparison
method. My suggestion is to try a suit on, walk around in
it and stretch it by reaching and bending, twisting and sitting.
If you are diving in waters that are considered warm than
you will not need a very thick suit. The colder the water
the thicker the suit required. In some cases you may need
a two-piece suit and require a hood and gloves. I suggest
that if you are in an area where the water is cold then practice
your skills wearing the gloves and hood to become familiar
to the effects of wearing them. It doesn't hurt to do this
in a warmer location either. Gloves will change your dexterity
and a hood may feel awkward at first. Also wear the full suit
in the pool before going out into the open water. This way
you'll have a chance to better calculate your weight needed
and you'll see that moving in a thicker suit may be a little
more cumbersome than a thin skin type suit. You should always
match your suit to the environment and depth to which you
are diving. It is easier to cool down than warm up while underwater.
If you do overheat when on the surface then just jump in the
water and wait for your buddy there, it may be more comfortable.
In any case get a wetsuit that is snug and comfortable to
wear given the environment you'll do most of your diving in.
Hey in today's materials you can even match the color of that
mask, snorkel and fin set. Wetsuits range in price from about
$65 for a shorty to $400 for a full two-piece, average price
$159.00.
 Now
the drysuit! First of all there are a lot of myths out there
regarding the wearing of drysuits. Lets clear some of them
up first. After some time wearing a drysuit you'll find it
to be much more comfortable and convenient than a wetsuit.
Donning the drysuit will become easier the more times you
wear it. The need to add excessive weight is also false. You'll
require only as much weight, as you would need for a comparable
thick wetsuit.
A
drysuit does require additional training and maintenance.
Care of the drysuit especially the zipper, wrist and neck
seals are an important factor if you wish to maximize the
use and life of your drysuit. With good maintenance there
is no reason that a drysuit should not last as long or longer
then a wetsuit, approximately 3-5 years or longer. But for
the comfort that you'll get, it is worth it. Drysuits come
in a variety of materials. Some drysuits called shells come
in very durable materials usually of a highly resistance to
wear nylon, rubber, polyester material called a trilaminate.
Others are of a rubatex or neoprene material. The neoprene
material, although generally warmer, does not have the abrasive
resistance or durability that other suits have.
Good
buoyancy control can negate that issue. You should receive
training before using a drysuit for the first time. The use
of an under garment called a " wooly-bear" is also needed
to provide that extra bit of warmth that a drysuit is known
for. A drysuit keeps you dry but you still may be subject
to the cold and that is where the under garments come in.
You should have sufficient space in your drysuit that you
can wear an undergarment and still have plenty of room to
stretch and move. Don't get one to baggy though you'll use
up too much air in an attempt to avoid the suit from pinching
you at depth, also known as squeeze.
Follow
the manufactures instructions on care and maintenance of the
suit, especially the zipper. Ensure that the correct fit of
all the seals is correct and comfortable. This is very important
in the neck seal. Choose the drysuit based on your type and
frequency of diving. If you dive shipwrecks or caves you may
want a more durable shell type drysuit. If you enjoy diving
the open water zones than a neoprene drysuit may be all you
need. Drysuits vary in their pricing from as low as $400 to
over $2500 so be certain that you choose wisely and according
to your budget.
BOUYANCY
CONTROL DEVICES
 The
buoyancy control device or BCD as it is called has come a
long way since divers used a "Mae West". Today the BCD is
used to support the air cylinder, the weight system, the regulator
and oh yes the diver. The purpose of the BCD is to provide
the diver with a means in which to achieve total freedom of
movement when underwater.
In your basic open water class you learn how to operate the
BCD. The basic designs of BCD today are the horse collar,
the wrap around jacket, and the back inflation. The horse
collar is really not in use much anymore. If you see a diver
wearing one of these than you might ask him about those early
"Sea Hunt"" episodes on TV. The jacket and back inflation
style are the norm today and each has it's own characteristics.
Like
any other piece of equipment the fit and comfort when wearing
a BCD is very important. BCD's can be adjusted to fit. Some
BCD manufactures have designed their BCD's to allow for a
more custom fit when buying right off the rack. Your retailer
should take the time to fit you correctly. Choose your BCD
again for the type of diving you want to do; spending a little
more now will save a lot more later. The BCD and regulator
should be one of your first big equipment purchases. You'll
know how it will fit and feel plus you know the condition
they are in. The BCD is a life support system. Most BCD's
provide approximately 35-40 pounds of lift or floatation.
Some can achieve as much as 150 pounds of lift used in more
technical diving applications.
And
like every thing else they can come in a wide variety of colors,
you know to match that mask, snorkel, fins and wetsuit you
bought. Today some incorporate the weight system integrated
into the BCD harness. These have proven to be much more comfortable
to wear than the old weight belt. BCD's will also compensate
for depth compression when you descend thus maintaining comfort
and security. Prices range from $300 and up.
THE
REGULATOR
 The
regulator is the device, which allows us to breath underwater.
Generally we select a regulator by how easy it breathes. Some
regulators do not perform as well as others and some of the
higher priced models don't perform with any notable difference
to their lower priced counterparts.
Review
your budget and select a regulator that will meet your needs.
Test breath several different models; see if your local dive
shop will let you test dive the models you may consider buying.
Each regulator assembly should include an octopus or alternate
air source. Some BCD's have the alternate air source as part
of their configuration and you'll need to learn how to use
the particular configuration you choose.

In
addition to the octopus the regulator assembly must have a
console consisting of a depth gauge or computer, and a means
to monitor your air supply.
A
compass is also highly suggested. If you don't elect to use
a computer you may not be getting the most out of your diving.
Computers
when used in conjunction with dive planning tables really
add to your diving safety, and they provide a means of keeping
track of all that dive data that you'll want for your logbook
following your dive. Some have downloadable capabilities that
you can connect to your PC and log your dives that way. If
you are thinking about learning to dive with enriched air
than I suggest to purchase a computer that will be programmable
for enriched air diving and save the initial cost upfront.
THE
SCUBA CYLINDER
The
scuba cylinder should be one of the last things you purchase.
The cost of renting a cylinder is not much more than an air
fill. But if you plan to dive frequently than by all means buy
one. They come in many different sizes from a small pony bottle
to the much larger 130 cubic foot. You can decide between high
pressure and low pressure, steel or aluminum. If you buy one
you might as well purchase two scuba cylinders, just for the
convenience. Oh yeh! And they come in a variety of colors so
you can be color coordinated from head to toe - ah fin!
ACCESSORIES
There
are many accessories to add to your diving equipment list.
On the top of the list should be a diving flag with float.
Some states require by law that you have a flag anytime you
are diving or snorkeling, the flag is a much worthwhile investment
in diver safety. The diving knife is a tool and again there
are many designs to choose from. If it's not a knife you want
than perhaps a pair of scissors will be your choice. Diving
lights I feel should be carried on every dive. At night you
require at minimum two lights, one as a primary and the other
as a back up. Some applications such as cave or wreck diving
require that you carry a minimum of three. You will want to
choose a light that provides you with sufficient light duration
and brilliance for the type of diving you choose to do. For
underwater photography or video the brighter the light generally
the better. Another accessory that I find worthwhile is a
device called "Divers Alert". It is a diver distress, signaling
device that connects between the low-pressure inflator hose
of your BCD and the tank. It produces a very loud signal that
can be heard from a great distance, even over the noise of
a boat's engines. You may also elect to carry a "Signal
Sausage." In the event you may become separated from
your dive flag this device will mark you position and warn
boats that you are in the area. Finally an underwater slate.
A slate can be used for many things from communication to
your buddy, recording your dive plan and navigational recording.
All you need is a standard pencil and you can write away.
One over looked piece of equipment is the logbook. This simple
little book can provide a world of historical and useful information
if you take just a few moments after your day of diving to
fill it out. There are to numerous accessories to mention
just use some common sense and tailor accessories to the diving
you opt to do. Accessories make great Christmas gifts, hint-hint!
BUYING
YOUR EQUIPMENT
Buying
your equipment can be an interesting challenge. Select your
retail shop carefully just as you would for your instruction,
looking for a comfortable atmosphere and service and selection.
A courteous staff will be there ready to provide you with
what you NEED for the type of diving YOU choose to do. With
consideration to your budget purchase equipment with quality
that you feel also provides you the best fit and comfort level.
I always suggest to my students to buy equipment in packages,
this way they will save much money over the long haul. they
should match the equipment to the type of diving that they
have interest in doing now or maybe down the road with a little
more experience under the water.
NOW
LET'S GO DIVING!
Rick
Murcar
http://www.genesisdiving.com/

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